Island Winery? WHAT a CONCEPT as we've previously discussed)

Island winery aspirited idea

But city, others say that’s not a suitable location

By JOHN GALLAGHER FREE PRESS BUSINESS WRITER

   A Jackson-based winemaker named John Burtka is pitching Detroit on a spirited idea — creating Detroit’s first winery on a 10-acre site on Belle Isle.

   That site may not work, because Mayor Dave Bing’s office already is saying Belle Isle should remain a recreation-only enclave for Detroiters. But Bing’s spokesman, Dan Lijana, said Wednesday that the mayor is intrigued by the idea of a winery elsewhere in the city.

   In recent weeks, Burtka has been pitching his idea to a variety of civic leaders. He has lined up support from the TechTown business incubator at Wayne State University, whose director, Randal Charlton, is an enthusiastic supporter, and Dan Carmody, president of the Eastern Market Corp.

   “We’re surrounded by vineyards in Ontario and western Michigan. Why not Detroit?” Carmody said Wednesday.

   Charlton said that the proposal shows that growing agricultural products inside Detroit can generate lots of new economic development.

   “This is not about growing food. This is about agri-tourism,” Charlton said.

   Burtka’s plans call for growing grapes on the eastern end of Belle Isle, which is used today by joggers, cross-country skiers, people fishing off the island, and other recreational users. The proposal also includes using the landmark Casino on Belle Isle as a venue for sales and wine-tastings.

   “It is such a compelling venue that I’m sure we’re going to attract national and international attention,” Burtka said this week.

   Asked about the idea, Bing’s spokesman Lijana said Wednesday, “While the administration is receptive to the idea of creating a winery in Detroit, we believe Belle Isle is a place for recreation. There have been no talks at this point, although conversation is expected to begin next week.”

   Beyond Belle Isle, Burtka also hopes to operate his Detroit City Cellars winery as a cooperative growing arrangement. He would recruit 30 entrepreneurs to grow grapes on 1-acre plots around the city and then pool their production.

   If growing grapes for wine in Detroit sounds odd, Burtka notes that the city’s founder, the French entrepreneur Cadillac, found grapes growing wild in Detroit when he arrived in 1701, and that the French made a pretty passable wine out of it.

   Beyond that historical precedent, Burtka said climate studies have convinced him that year-round temperatures would support grape growing on the island.

   “I think this will draw people from outside the city into the city, and help them understand some of the neat things that are going on,” Burtka said.

   Any private proposal to lease public land on Belle Isle is sure to generate debate. On Wednesday, Melvadean Pearson, a board member with the nonprofit group Friends of Belle Isle, said the group would not support a winery on the island for a variety of reasons. “I think it would be an inappropriate site,” she said.

   Burtka said he thinks his proposal will get a fair hearing. “I’d say the climate is very favorable to look at new ideas,” he said.

   A native of Wyandotte, Burtka spent many years working as a mid-level manager for Ford and for an auto supplier before leaving that industry and opening what are now three wineries. They include Sleeping Bear and Cherry Creek vineyards.

BLAKE KOWNACKI/Special to the Free Press John Burtka, a Jackson-based winemaker, on the far east end of Belle Isle where he hopes to plant Detroit’s first vineyard.